Publisher: Amy Barrett-Daffin

Creative Director: Gailen Runge

Senior Editor: Roxane Cerda

Editors: Liz Aneloski, Kathryn Patterson, Lynn Koolish, Lee Jonsson, S. Michele Fry, Cynthia Bix, Monica Gyulai, Ann Haley

Technical Editors: Debbie Rodgers, Alison M. Schmidt, Mary E. Flynn, Julie Waldman, Gailen Runge, Helen Frost, Susan Nelsen, Ann Haley, Nanette S. Zeller

Cover/Book Designer: April Mostek

Production Coordinator: Zinnia Heinzmann

Illustrators: Valyrie Gillum, Lon Eric Craven, Zinnia Heinzmann, Jessica Jenkins, Mary Flynn, Deb Cashatt, Tim Manibusan

Photography Assistants: Mary Peyton Peppo, Mai Yong Vang, Michael Gardner

Photography by Estefany Gonzalez, Nissa Brehmer, Diane Pedersen, Lucy Glover, Mai Yong Vang, Christina Carty-Francis of C&T Publishing, Inc., unless otherwise noted

Published by Stash Books, an imprint of C&T Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549

Humble Bundle

The patterns in this book are available to print both on a home printer or at a copyshop. To access the patterns, type the web address tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download into your browser window.

Lunch Bags and Accessories

Donation Locations and Organizations

By Karly Wallace

Whether you’re donating your time, gently-used clothes and household items, or a monetary contribution, donations are always welcomed and appreciated. There are various organizations to choose from. Clothing donation organizations include: The Salvation Army, Goodwill, and Dress for Success.

While The Salvation Army and Goodwill are heavily focused on clothing donations, they offer other things like home improvement items. One non-profit organization that is great for finding second-hand fabrics, household goods, furniture, and more is the Habitat for Humanity ReStore. Check with your local ReStore to see what other items they accept outside of these specific categories as every store is different.

In addition to the donation locations above, there are three great environmental organizations that focus on climate change, conservation, and sustainability:

World Wildlife Fund, Inc.

Keep America Beautiful

Environmental Research and Education Foundation

Snack Bag

By Abigail American Bennett

FINISHED SIZE: 5˝ wide × 10½˝ high × 2½˝ deep (7½˝ high when closed)

Snacks are always a good idea. A button-and-loop closure keeps this snack bag adorable and easily personalized. I decided to give an option for a wristlet handle so carrying your snacks is a little more convenient, too.

REPLACES

Resealable plastic snack bags

Reusable snack bags are eco-friendly and help cut down the amount of single-use plastic bags in landfills.

Materials

• ⅜ yard of main print for outside

• ⅜ yard of coordinating print for lining, loop closure, and optional wristlet

• 1 package or ⅜ yard of insulated batting, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing

• ¾˝ button

Cutting

Main print: Cut 2 rectangles 9˝ × 13˝ for the outside.

Coordinating print:

• Cut 2 rectangles 9˝ × 13˝ for the lining.

• Cut 1 rectangle 2˝ × 4˝ for the loop closure.

• Cut 1 rectangle 2˝ × 13˝ for the wristlet (optional).

Insul-Fleece: Cut 2 rectangles 9˝ × 13˝.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Make the loop closure by folding the rectangle 2˝ × 4˝ in half long ways, wrong sides together. Press. Fold the raw edges in to the center and fold in half on the crease; press again. Sew ⅛˝ from the edge. Fold and press into a U shape. Set aside.

If making the wristlet option, take the rectangle 2˝ × 13˝ and repeat Step 1, except do not fold into a U shape. Fold in half and pin at the side of the outside rectangle, 4½˝ from the top.

2. Pin the Insul-Fleece rectangles to the wrong sides of the outside rectangles and baste together with a scant ¼˝ seam allowance. Sew the outside rectangles right sides together on the sides and bottom. To create boxed corners in the bottom of the bag, match the side seam to the bottom seam and pinch the fabrics together. Pin. Measure a line perpendicular to the seam that is 2½˝ long and mark with a pen. Sew along this line. Trim the seam allowance to ¼˝. Repeat with the other corner, and turn the bag right side out.

3. Bring the 2 side seams together to find the center of the bag’s top edge, and mark with a sewing pin. Pin the loop from Step 1 here and stitch in place. Set aside.

4. Take the lining pieces and sew the sides and bottom right sides together, leaving a 3˝ gap in the bottom for turning. Repeat Step 2 to make the boxed corners in the lining.

5. Place the outside bag inside the lining, right sides together. Sew around the opening. Turn the bag right side out through the lining opening. Slipstitch the opening closed and push the lining into the outside bag.

6. Press the top edge and topstitch ¼˝ from the edge. Fold the top of the bag over 3˝ and make a mark on the bag front in the middle of the loop. Stitch your favorite button here.

Reusable Sandwich Wrap

By Cheryl B. Steighner

FINISHED SIZE: 15˝ × 11˝

Fabric on the outside and ripstop vinyl on the inside, these quick and fun sandwich wraps that save money, reduce the use of plastic bags, and make a statement all at the same time. You will want to make several!

REPLACES

Plastic sandwich bags

Plastic sandwich bags can be mistaken for food by birds and sea turtles (floating bags look a lot like jellyfish!).

Materials

• 12˝ × 16˝ piece cotton fabric for exterior

• 12˝ × 16˝ piece cotton lining, such as muslin

• 12˝ × 16˝ piece ripstop nylon for lining

• 3˝ length of oval, elastic cord

• ¾˝-diameter button

• Removable fabric pen

Cutting

Cotton fabric: Cut 1 oval.

Cotton lining: Cut 1 oval.

ripstop nylon: Cut 1 oval.

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Seam allowance is ½˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Use a fabric pen to mark A on the wrong side of the ripstop nylon.

2. Place the cotton lining underneath the wrong side of the cotton exterior. Place the right side of the ripstop nylon so it faces the right side of the cotton exterior. Pin together.

3. Fold a 3˝ piece of oval cord elastic into a U shape. Keeping the ends flat, close the U to form a teardrop shape (the ends should be side-by-side, not overlapping). Place the elastic U between the ripstop nylon and the cotton exterior at mark A. Make sure the raw edges of the elastic are facing the edge of the oval and are flat against the fabric. Pin in place.

4. Sew along the outside of the oval, leaving a 2˝–3˝ opening along one of the longer, straight sides. Stitch around again for extra durability, preserving the opening.

5. Trim the seam allowance to ⅛˝ near the stitching and clip the curves. Turn the wrap right side out, work the seams flat, and press into an oval shape with a cool iron on the cotton side. The elastic loop should now be facing out. Fold in the seam opening and pin it closed. Topstitch ⅛˝ around the outside of the wrap to close the seam opening and to give the wrap a finished look.

6. With the ripstop facing up, work from the opposite end of the elastic loop as you fold the wrap in half lengthwise. Measure 3˝ in from the bottom edge of the cotton fabric and mark the right side of the fold with a removable fabric pen. This will be where you will place your button. To test the button placement, fold the wrap as you would with a sandwich in it to see if the loop covers your pen marking. Adjust the button placement accordingly. Hand sew the button to the fabric over the mark.

USING YOUR SANDWICH WRAP

1. Lay the wrap flat, lining side up. Place the sandwich in the middle.

2. Fold the long sides toward the middle over the sandwich.

3. Fold the button end toward the middle.

4. Fold the elastic end toward the middle and fasten over the button.

To clean, either hand wash or toss it in the washing machine. Line dry.

Coffee Cozy

By Abigail American Bennett

FINISHED SIZE: Adjustable to fit up to a large coffee cup

Those tall mugs are always pretty cute and will keep your coffee nice and steamy, too. I like to add this cozy to personalize the cup that much more. As my Paps always said, “Coffee can never be hot enough!”

REPLACES

Cardboard coffee sleeve

Eliminate waste by bringing your own coffee cozy with you on your daily coffee run. Even a recyclable logo on the sides of these cardboard coffee sleeves does not help with waste. In the United States alone, an estimated 50 billion paper coffee cups are thrown in the trash every year.

Materials

• 1 fat quarter (18˝ × 20˝–22˝)

• 1 package or ⅛ yard of insulated batting, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing

• 2 buttons ⅝˝ diameter

Cutting

Fat quarter:

• Cut 2 coffee cozies on the fold using the pattern.

• Cut 2 rectangles 1½˝ × 3˝ for the loops.

Insul-Fleece: Cut 1 coffee cozy on the fold using the pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Make the loop by folding the rectangle 1½˝ × 3˝ in half, wrong sides together, and press. Open and fold the raw edges to the center; fold back in half, and press. Topstitch ⅛˝ from the edge. Press into a U shape. Make 2.

2. Pin the loops on the right side of the outside fabric piece, ½˝ from the top and bottom. Sew in place.

3. Pin both coffee cozy pieces right sides together; then pin to the Insul-Fleece shape. Sew around all sides, leaving a small gap in the bottom. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Press.

4. Slipstitch the opening closed and topstitch ⅛˝ from the edge. Test the fit of the cozy to your cup and mark the center of the loops. Sew the buttons at the marks.

For all printable patterns or digital content: tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download

Your Best Place Mat

AND NAPKIN SET

By Virginia Lindsay

FINISHED SIZE: 12˝ × 18˝ place mat, 17˝ × 17˝ napkin

Anyone can make a superquick place mat by sewing two layers of fabric together, but a beautiful, sturdy, reversible, bound place mat? Add coordinating cloth napkins for a truly lovely set. Use high-quality, stylish fabrics and this makes a perfect handmade gift.

REPLACES

Paper napkins, paper placemats

Paper napkins cannot be recycled and are wasteful. Try making your own cloth napkin.

Fabric: I used a mix of Dear Stella’s Piper fabric line.

Materials

Quilting-weight fabric is recommended. If you are making multiples, plan your materials and cutting based on the number of items you are making to use your fabric efficiently. These materials make 4 place mats and napkins.

• ⅔ yard each or 1 piece 24˝ × 36˝ each of 2 different cotton fabrics for place mat top and backing

• ⅓–⅔ yard or 1 piece 24˝ × 36˝ cotton batting, depending on the width of your batting

• 3 yards lightweight fusible interfacing, 20˝ wide

• ½ yard coordinating fabric for straight-grain binding or packaged double-fold binding to equal 7 yards

• 1 yard or 1 piece 36˝ × 36˝ cotton fabric for napkins

Cutting

2 placemat fabrics and batting: From each, cut 4 pieces 12˝ × 18˝.

Interfacing: Cut 8 pieces 12˝ × 18˝.

Binding fabric (if you are making your own): Cut 7 strips 2¼˝ × width of fabric.

Napkin fabric: Cut 4 pieces 18˝ × 18˝.

PLACE MAT CONSTRUCTION

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the 8 fabric pieces.

2. Sandwich a batting piece between 2 different place mat pieces, both right sides out. Pin together at the corners. Serge or zigzag around the outer edge of all 3 layers if desired. Otherwise, the pins will hold it together fine, or you can baste the layers together if desired. Repeat to make 4 place mats.

3. If you are making your own binding, sew the short ends of your cut strips together and press the seams open to make 1 continuous strip. Fold and press the binding strip in half the long way, wrong sides together.

4. Use the continuous binding strip (or purchased binding) to bind each place mat using your favorite (and fastest) method.

NAPKIN CONSTRUCTION

1. With the 18˝ × 18˝ napkin fabric square wrong side up, draw a diagonal line 1˝ in from the tip at each corner. Repeat to mark all 4 napkins.

2. Fold fabric right sides together through the corner, aligning the raw edges, so the drawn line makes a right triangle. Measure or estimate the center of the visible line and pin to mark. Repeat this step to pin all 4 corners on all 4 napkins.

3. Using the drawn line as your guide and starting at the folded edge, sew along the line to the pin, about ½˝. Sew all 4 corners on all 4 napkins. You may want to chainstitch the corners without cutting threads to save time.

4. Clip off the tips of the corners and make a tiny clip in the remaining seam allowance at the fold. Gently push all the corners out to the right side with a chopstick.

5. Iron the napkin, right side down, so the edges are flat, as guided by the corner seams. Then fold and iron the raw edges under to meet the crease. The space left when you sewed only half the corner will guide you to make a nice mitered corner.

6. When you have ironed all 4 sides under, don’t bother to pin. Just take the napkin over to your sewing machine and sew the folded edge down around the 4 sides of the napkin.

7. Repeat with the 3 other 18˝ × 18˝ pieces of fabric. Iron nice and flat.

Suggestions

• Use thicker but still washable fabric instead of the quilting-weight fabric so that you can eliminate the fusible interfacing step. For example, cotton twill or a lightweight canvas would work well.

• Quilt your place mats before binding for extra durability.

Quilted Cotton Lunch Bag

WITH DRAWSTRING CLOSURE

By Yoko Drain

FINISHED SIZE: 13˝ × 7½˝ × 5˝

This bag has a fun basket-like design and an easy cinch-top closure. A sturdy exterior case make a perfect carry-all for any reusable container.

REPLACES

Plastic and paper lunch bags

Quilted cotton lunch bags safely keep your food cold or hot all day long.

Materials

• ¾ yard solid-colored fabric for body, liner, and strap

• ½ yard printed fabric for top closure and strap

• ½ yard batting

• 31˝ length of white cotton rope (approximately ¼˝ wide) for drawstring

• Removable fabric marker

Cutting

Solid-colored fabric

• Cut 2 rectangles 22˝ × 14˝ for body and liner.

• Cut 1 strip 13˝ × 3˝ for strap.

Printed fabric

• Cut 1 rectangle 8˝ × 27˝ for top closure.

• Cut 1 strip 13˝ × 3˝ for strap.

Batting

• Cut 1 rectangle 21˝ × 13˝ for body.

• Cut 1 strip 13˝ × 2˝ for strap.

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: All seam allowances are ½˝.

Making the Quilted Body

1. Use the removable fabric marker to draw 45°-angle guidelines on the right side of a 22˝ × 14˝ piece of solid fabric. Space the lines 1½˝ apart.

2. With the wrong side up, place the batting in the center of the solid fabric (½˝ from all edges) and place pins on the fabric side to secure it. (The pins are visible when you quilt.)

3. Machine quilt by following the guidelines.

4. With the batting side out, fold the quilted rectangle in half. Stitch ½˝ from the edges on both sides. Make sure to backstitch at the top.

5. To form the bottom of the bag, take one of the side seams you just sewed and place it on top so the top of the bag is toward you. Force the bag to flatten, with the bottom of the seam forming the top of the triangle. Open up the seams. Stitch across the triangle as shown to make a 5˝ line of stitching. Make sure you backstitch. Repeat this step for the other seam.

6. Trim the triangle ½˝ outside the stitching.

Making the Liner

1. With the wrong side out, fold the other solid fabric for the body in half. Stitch ½˝ from the edges on both sides. Make sure to backstitch at the top.

2. Form the bottom of the bag liner as you did the outer fabric, following Steps 5 and 6 under “Making the Quilted Body.”

Making the Top Closure

1. With the wrong side out, fold the 8˝ × 27˝ print fabric in half, bringing the short ends together. Stitch the short sides together from the top, stopping after 1¼˝. Make sure to backstitch both at the top and the bottom of the short seam.

2. Leave a ¾˝ gap and then stitch the remaining 6˝ seam from the gap to the bottom. Backstitch at both the top and the bottom.

3. Press the seam open. With the print fabric wrong side out, press under the top edge by ½˝. Press under again ¾˝.

4. Topstitch along the edge of the bottom fold.

Making and Attaching the Strap

1. With right sides together, pin the solid and print strap pieces together.

2. Stitch along a long side ½˝ from the edge. Press the seam open.

3. Place the batting against the stitching on the solid fabric. Press the long raw edges of the solid and print fabrics in by ½˝. Fold he strap along the seam, matching the folded edges. Place pins to secure the fabric and batting.

4. Topstitch along both long sides ⅛˝ and then ⅝˝ from the edge, for a total of 4 stitch lines.

5. With the print fabric side up, pin the strap to the top center of the quilted body. Leave 1˝ at the end of the strap. Stitch them together ½˝ from the top of the body.

6. Repeat Step 5 on the other side. You will need to fold the body so that the strap can go around to the other side.

FINISHING

1. With the wrong side out and the casing side down, place the top closure over the body. Make sure to line up the side seam, as well as the top of the body and the bottom of the top closure. Stitch ½˝ from the edge.

2. With the wrong side out, place the liner over the body. Make sure to line up the side seams and the top edges.

3. Starting from the seam, stitch 1˝ from the top edges, leaving a 4˝ gap at the end. Make sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.

4. Turn the bag right side out by pulling it through the opening made in Step 3.

5. Push the top closure into the body and pin the edges together. Make sure the 4˝ opening is folded in the same manner. Stitch ½˝ from the top.

6. Insert the drawstring into the casing. Attach a safety pin to one end of the cord and use it to push the string through the casing. Tie the drawstring ends together.

Classic Insulated

LUNCH BAG

By Virginia Lindsay

FINISHED SIZE: 7½˝ wide × 9½˝ high × 5˝ deep (not including tab top)

With four kids, I pack lunches almost every morning. Although I have created many lunch bag styles over the years, this one is a new favorite because it holds a lot of reusable lunch containers, closes easily at the top with hook-and-loop tabs, and has a cute classic look.

REPLACES

Paper lunch bags

Using insulated lunch bags will help protect your food. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, food should not be eaten after 2 hours if kept in an old-fashioned brown paper bag.

Fabric for featured project: Modern Yardage’s Cool Jazz, Blumen, and Burst, designed by Liz Ablashi

Materials

• 1 piece 15½˝ × 16˝ main exterior fabric (for front, back, and base)

• 1 piece 10˝ × 18˝ contrasting exterior fabric (for sides and tab top closure)

• 1 piece 8˝ × 10˝ contrasting fabric 2 (optional pocket)

• 1½ yards lightweight, nonwoven fusible interfacing, 20˝ wide (I use Pellon 931TD.)*

• 1 piece 10˝ × 32½˝ lining fabric

• 1 piece 10˝ × 32½˝ insulated batting, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing

• 7˝ piece of 1˝-wide sew-in hook-and-loop tape

* Interfacing is required only if using quilting-weight cotton. Laminated cotton or sturdy duck cloth would not require interfacing.

Cutting

Main exterior fabric: Cut 2 rectangles 8˝ × 10˝ and 1 rectangle 5½˝ × 8˝.

Contrasting exterior fabric: Cut 2 rectangles 5½˝ × 10˝ and 2 rectangles 3½˝ × 8˝.

Lining: Cut 2 rectangles 8˝ × 10˝, 2 rectangles 5½˝ × 10˝, and 1 rectangle 5½˝ × 8˝.

Interfacing: Cut 4 rectangles 8˝ × 10˝, 4 rectangles 5½˝ × 10˝, 2 rectangles 5½˝ × 8˝, and 4 rectangles 3½˝ × 8˝.

Batting: Cut 2 rectangles 8˝ × 10˝, 2 rectangles 5½˝ × 10˝, and 1 rectangle 5½˝ × 8˝.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted. Backstitch or lockstitch at the beginning and end of all seams.

Prepare the Pieces

Tip You can fuse larger pieces of inter facing to the back of your fabrics before cutting, and then cut the fabric and interfacing all together. What you waste in materials, you may save in time.

1. Fuse the corresponding interfacing pieces to the back of all the quilting-weight cotton pieces.

2. Baste the batting pieces to the wrong side of the corresponding exterior pieces, using a ⅛˝ seam allowance. (You can also skip the basting and just pin the exterior and batting pieces together as you go).

3. Optional: Fold the 8˝ × 10˝ pocket piece in half, wrong sides together, so that the folded piece is 5˝ × 8˝. Press and topstitch along the folded edge.

4. Fold the 3½˝ × 8˝ rectangles for the tab closure in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so that the folded piece is 1¾˝ × 8˝. Finger-press to crease, and unfold. Pin 1 piece of hook-and-loop tape to the right side of the tab, centered and ¼˝ away from the fold. Sew around all 4 edges of the tape. Sew the other piece of the tape to the remaining tab the same way.

5. Refold the tabs on the center crease, right sides together. Pin and sew the short edges. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Press flat on the side without the hook-and-loop tape.

Construct the Bag Body

1. Using a straightedge and a pencil (or some light marking tool), mark a line on the wrong side of the 5½˝ × 8˝ lining base piece ¼˝ in from each side. Repeat with the 5½˝ × 8˝ batting base piece. These lines will make it simple and accurate to sew the sides later.

2. Pin the 5½ × 8˝ exterior base piece to a 5½ × 10˝ exterior side piece, wrong sides together (in this case, batting sides together), along the short sides. Sew with the base facing up, starting and stopping your stitching line ¼˝ in from the corners, using the lines drawn in Step 1.

3. Repeat Step 2 to attach the other 5½˝ × 10˝ exterior side piece to the base.

4. Optional: Layer the pocket on top of the 8˝ × 10˝ exterior front piece, aligning the raw edges at the bottom and sides. Pin or baste in place.

5. Repeat Step 3 again to attach the exterior front and back pieces to the base.

6. Fold the exterior bag from a corner of the base so the front and an adjacent side meet. Pin them right sides together and sew from the top down, again stopping ¼˝ short, just like with the base. Repeat this step to sew up all the side seams.

7. Trim the seams and clip the corners. Turn the exterior bag right side out and press.

8. Repeat Steps 2–6 with the lining pieces, but make sure to leave a 4˝ gap in one of the lining sides so you can turn the entire piece right side out later. Clip the corners of the lining.

Attach the Handles and Finish the Bag

1. Pin the tabs to the top of the bag exterior, at the front and back, right sides together, with the hook-and-loop side of the tabs away from the bag. Baste in place with an ⅛˝ seam allowance.

2. Insert the exterior bag inside the lining, right sides together, and line up the seams at the top. Pin and sew around the entire opening.

3. Trim the seam around the top edge and then reach inside the opening left in the lining. Pull the exterior bag out and then pull the lining right side out too. Push the lining inside the exterior body.

4. Pull the lining back out and press the raw edges of the lining opening under. Either blindstitch the opening closed or topstitch it closed as close to the edge as possible. Push the lining back inside the bag.

5. Press the bag well, paying special attention to the opening.

6. Topstitch around the bag opening. Close the bag at the hook-and-loop tabs; push in the sides to make the classic lunch bag look. Iron the sides in or just fold the bag neatly and let the fabric “train” itself to naturally close with the sides in.

Suggestions

• You can make additions to this bag, including a zippered pocket, pockets on both sides, or interior pockets.

• You can also really simplify the bag for a quick sew by having no pockets, using all one fabric, eliminating the Insul-Fleece batting, or changing the closure to a button and elastic cord. So quick and easy.

• Try appliqué, patchwork, or trim to dress up the lunch bag and show your sewing strengths.

Going Shopping

Learn More

By Karly Wallace

There are lots of resources for learning more about the environment and recycling. With a multitude of resources on the internet, it is easy to be misinformed with lack of proper research and websites with bias or incorrect information. When educating yourself or those around you on the environment and recycling, it is best to visit credible websites. Try to stick to websites that end in .gov, .edu, and .org. These resources will be the most up to date and contain factual information from knowledgeable sources and reported findings. There are a few .com outliers that are also well-informed on the environment.

Here is a list of websites to learn more about the environment and recycling:

U.S Environmental Protection Agency: epa.gov

Waste Management: wm.com

National Geographic: nationalgeographic.com

Solid Waste Association of North America: swana.org

Earthday.org: earthday.org

The National Waste & Recycling Association(NWRA): wasterecycling.org

The Nature Conservancy: nature.org/en-us

Green Living Toolkit: greenlivingtoolkit.org

Our Last Straw: ourlaststraw.org

World Resources Institute: www.wri.org

Market Bag

AND POUCH

By Sue Kim

FINISHED SIZE: 12˝ wide × 16½˝ high × 4½˝ deep

This project is suitable for all sewing levels. The large Market Bag easily folds into the carrying pouch—how convenient. Keep the Market Bag with you at all times for those fun shopping trips.

REPLACES

Paper and plastic

shopping bags

Using reusable market bags eliminate the waste of more than 700 disposable plastic bags a year.

PATTERNS

The patterns are available in this book, but the front/back pattern is reduced. You can also access them online to print the patterns full size and tiled.

To enlarge the pattern in the book, copy it at 400% on your home or copyshop copier in overlapping quadrants and tile them together.

To access the pattern through the tiny url, type the web address tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download into your browser window.

A ⅜˝ seam allowance is included on the patterns.

Materials

Amounts are based on 42˝-wide fabric.

• 1 yard for bag exterior (optional: 2 fabrics pieced together for the front)

• ¼ yard for pocket or individual pouch

• 1¼ yards for lining

• ¾˝ (18mm) magnetic snap (optional)

• 5˝ of narrow elastic for button closure

• 2 buttons, 1˝ diameter

Note You can follow the instructions for the pocket to make an individual pouch.

Cutting

Transfer all points and reference marks to the fabric. Cut out the exterior, pocket, and lining.

Use the Market Bag Front and Back, Pocket Front and Back, and Pocket Flap pattern.

Draw the pattern directly onto the wrong side of a single layer of fabric. Transfer all points and reference marks to the fabric. Cut out the exterior, lining, and interfacing.

Exterior

• Cut 2 Front and Back pieces.

• Cut 2 Pocket Front and Back pieces.

• Cut 1 Pocket Flap piece.

Lining

• Cut 2 Front and Back pieces.

• Cut 2 Pocket Front and Back pieces.

• Cut 1 Pocket Flap piece.

SEWING THE EXTERIOR AND LINING

Use a ⅜˝ seam allowance unless other wise noted.

1. Place the front and back pieces with right sides together, pin both sides, and stitch. Pin the bottom and stitch together.

2. Match the side and bottom seams with right sides together. Pin in place and stitch. Repeat this process for the other side.

3. Attach the magnetic snap onto the lining pieces 2˝ down from the top and centered. Following the manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Sew the lining pieces together like Steps 1 and 2 at left. Leave a 6˝ opening for turning.

ASSEMBLING THE EXTERIOR AND LINING

1. Turn the exterior right side out and tuck it into the lining with right sides together.

2. Pin the exterior and lining pieces together at the curved seam from the top of a handle to the top of the other handle. Sew, leaving the top 2˝ of the handles unsewn. Then pin each of the remaining curves and sew in the same manner.

3. Clip the inside corner seam allowances and trim the corner seams.

4. Turn the bag right side out through the bottom opening. Sew the opening closed.

CONSTRUCTING THE HANDLE

1. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Place the exterior handles with right sides together. Pin and sew together along the short edges. Press the seam open. Repeat this process for the lining.

2. Tuck in the raw edges of the seam allowances on both sides of the straps and press.

3. Pin or baste the strap opening. Topstitch ⅛˝ away from the seam around the armhole of the bag. Topstitch the other armhole and the main opening of the bag.

MAKING THE POCKET OR POUCH

Making the Front and Back

1. Place the front and back pieces with right sides together. Sew around the exterior front and back. Clip the curves.

2. Repeat this process for the lining.

Making the Flap

1. Place the elastic loop onto the exterior flap, facing in, and baste in place.

2. Pin the exterior flap and lining flap with right sides facing. Stitch only the rounded seam, leaving a straight edge unstitched for turning. Clip the curved seam.

3. Turn the flap right side out. Press the flap; topstitch ¼˝ away from the curved seam only.

4. Place the flap onto the back of the pocket exterior with exterior sides facing, aligning the raw edge of the pocket and the flap. Pin and baste the flap to the pocket.

Assembling the Pocket Exterior and Lining

1. Press the exterior and lining seams open. Put the exterior into the lining with right sides together, sandwiching the flap between the exterior and the lining.

2. Pin the opening of the pocket. Sew along the opening of the pocket using a ⅜˝ seam allowance, leaving a 3˝ gap to turn it right side out.

3. Trim the corner seams. Turn the pocket right side out. Iron the opening of the pocket. Tuck the lining into the exterior. Topstitch all around the opening of the pocket.

4. Turn the pocket inside out and sew the button to the lining front. Turn the pocket right side out and sew the optional second button to the front.

5. Attach the pocket onto the bag 4˝ down from the center top. Pin in place and stitch together at the top of the back.

FOLDING THE BAG

1. Fold the sides toward the center, beneath the pocket.

2. Flip the bag on its back. Fold the handles and the bottom up toward the center.

3. Turn the pocket inside out while inserting the bag into the pocket.

4. Hook the elastic around the button.

For all printable patterns or digital content: tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download

For all printable patterns or digital content: tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download

Smart Market Bag

By Virginia Lindsay

FINISHED SIZE: 13˝ × 13˝ × 8½˝

Reusable grocery bags are no longer something cute to bring along to the store if you happen to remember—they are now a staple for most people when doing their shopping. This bag is great because it is sturdy, roomy, and folds up nicely. It is great for you because it uses two half-yards of fabric with almost no waste (depending on the width of your fabric) and the sewing is simple and quick. Using webbing for handles saves you more time and this bag has an optional panel of stiff fusible interfacing at the base for greater stability.

REPLACES

Plastic and paper shopping bags

Did you know that over 1 million marine animals are killed every year due to leftover plastic in the ocean?

Fabrics: Organic Barkcloth Meridian Blue from Organic Cotton Plus

Materials

Makes 1 bag.

• Cotton Fabric:

Fabric 1 (exterior): ½ yard*

Fabric 2 (lining): ½ yard*

* If your fabric does not have 42˝ of usable width, then ⅔ yard is required for both exterior and lining.

• Midweight cotton or nylon webbing: 2 pieces 1˝ × 22˝

• Elastic: ¾˝ wide, 2 pieces each 6˝ long

• Heavyweight fusible interfacing: 1 piece 8½˝ × 13½˝ for sturdier base (optional)

• Fray Check (by Dritz) (optional)

Cutting

Refer to the fabric cutting guides (below) for the best use of fabric.

Fabric 1 (Exterior):

• Cut 2 pieces 14˝ × 18˝.

• Cut 2 pieces 9˝ × 13¾˝.

Fabric 2 (Lining):

• Cut 2 pieces 14˝ × 18˝.

• Cut 2 pieces 9˝ × 13¾˝.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

Make the Exterior

1. Sew the 14˝ × 18˝ pieces, right sides together, to make a piece that is 14˝ × 35½˝. Press the seam open.

2. Treat the ends of the handles with Fray Check or zigzag stitch the ends.

3. On one side, sew a handle 3˝ from one edge of the 14˝ side of the exterior piece. Repeat with the other side of the handle, attaching it 3˝ from the other edge to form a loop that faces down toward the center seam. Attach the second handle the same way on the other 14˝ edge of the exterior piece. This will be the front and back of the bag.

4. Mark the bottom center of the 9˝ × 13¾˝ side exterior piece, and pin it to the seam of the front and back piece, right sides together. Start sewing ¼˝ from the edge of the side piece, then sew across the base and stop ¼˝ from the other edge. Press the seam open.

5. Repeat with the other 9˝ × 13¾˝ piece on the other side of the front and back piece.

6. Fold the front piece up to line up with the top edge of a side piece and pin in place right sides together. Stitch. Press the seam open. Repeat with the back piece and the other side of the side piece.

7. Repeat with other side piece and the opposite edges of the front and back.

Make the Lining

1. Sew the 14˝ × 18˝ lining pieces, right sides together, as in Make the Exterior, Step 1 (above).

2. Sew the bottom of the side lining pieces as in Make the Exterior, Steps 4–7, but when sewing up the sides, stop 1½˝ from the top and leave a 1˝ opening, then stitch the last ½˝. Repeat this on the 3 other sides. Leave a 4˝ opening on one side seam for turning. Press the seams open.

Sew the Lining and Exterior Together

1. Turn the exterior right side out and insert it inside the lining so they are right sides together. Line up the seams and pin them together.

2. Sew around the top edge to attach the lining and the exterior. When you get to a handle, backstitch to give the handle extra strength.

3. Turn the bag right side out through the opening in the lining.

4. Press the bag thoroughly and topstitch ¼˝ from the top edge. On the sides only, topstitch 1¼˝ from the top edge to create a casing for the elastic.

5. Using a bodkin or a safety pin, thread the elastic through the casing on the sides.

6. After the elastic is pulled through, pin it on one side to secure it. Stitch it in place. Then pull the elastic all the way through so it gathers the side fabric and stitch it in place again, closing the opening in the side seam. Repeat with the other side of the bag.

7. Optionally, insert the 8½˝ × 13½˝ piece of heavy weight fusible interfacing in through the opening on the side you used for turning. The piece should fit snuggly into the base of the bag between the exterior and lining layers. Stand the bag upright on your ironing board and insert the iron carefully inside the bag. Carefully fuse the interfacing to the base of the bag. Topstitch the opening on the side of the bag closed or sew by hand with a ladder stitch.

Make it Your Own

• For a quick-to-make tote, omit the base interfacing and topstitching the side seams.

• Make your own matching handles instead of using webbing.

• Use extra webbing to extend the handles all the way down the front of the exterior and meet at the base seam. To do this, make the handles 58˝ long instead of 22˝ long.

• Use interfacing to make this bag sturdier or use batting to give it a quilted look.

Reusable Produce Bags

By Jenelle Montilone

FINISHED SIZE: 4˝ × 6˝

Why fill your reusable grocery bag with a dozen single-use plastic bags for your fresh fruits and vegetables? These lightweight, recycled T-shirt produce bags offer a sustainable and smart way to cut down on another major source of plastic bag waste and are fun to make! When asked, “Paper or plastic?” I respond, “Neither! I brought my own.”

REPLACES

Plastic produce bags

Single-use plastic bag global consumption has tripled since the beginning of the coronavirus pandemic.

Tip Gardeners! Reusable Produce Bags are perfect for storing bulbs through the winter.

Materials

• T-shirt

• Safety pin

• Serger (optional)

Cutting

1. Lay your T-shirt on a flat surface. Measure and cut 10˝ from the bottom of the T-shirt.

2. Fold in half, matching up both side seams. Measure 8˝ from side seams to center. Cut vertically, so now you have 2 pieces, for 2 bags, 10˝ × 8˝. (If your bags end up a little bigger or smaller, that’s okay!)

3. Cut 2 strips 1½˝ to 2˝ across the width of the remaining t-shirt top for 40˝ of t-shirt yarn.

INSTRUCTIONS

Cut the Vents

1. Unfold and refold the bag so that right sides are facing. Lay the bag onto the table with hem on bottom. Now fold the hem up 2˝.

2. Using a pair of sharp scissors, make ¾˝ cuts on the fold line you just created, spacing every 2˝. Stop 1˝ from the edge to ensure that you have room for the seam when you sew the bags together.

3. Fold the bottom up again, 2˝. Make cuts that alternate with those (between those) in row 1. Continue until you come to the bottom edge of the bag.

Sew

1. Pin the edge of the bag together and sew a ¼˝ seam, starting along the bottom and then up the side. Then using a zigzag or stretch stitch, sew across the bottom and up the side of the bag.

2. Cut 20˝ of T-shirt yarn. Attach a large safety pin on an end. Feed the safety pin through the hem casing and all the way around the bag. Tie off with a knot. Turn bags right side out.

Tip I use a serger when making my produce bags. If using a serger, run the stitches along the bottom edge and off the end. Cut the thread tail and then reposition the bag so that you are beginning at the bottom corner. Be sure to serge over the top of the initial stitches, up along the side edge, and veering off the bag just before you come to the hem casing. Use a yarn needle to tuck your serger tails into the seam.

Making Yarn

1. Spread a T-shirt on your cutting mat. Flatten out any creases, as they’ll create a jagged inconsistency in your yarn.

2. Fold in half widthwise—put the side edges of your T-shirt together and the sleeves together.

3. Place a straight-edged ruler just above the bottom hemline. Cut completely through all 4 layers using a rotary cutter. When you pick up this fabric it is a loop that you can cut to the desired length.

4. Measure up from the last cut to the desired width of yarn you’d like. I prefer to cut mine 1½˝–2˝; this general size, after being pulled taut, is the perfect diameter for drawstrings, packaging details, and headbands.

5. Knot together 2 strips if necessary to make 40˝.

Floral and

HERB WRAPS

By Cheryl Arkison

FINISHED FLORAL WRAP: 20˝ × 30˝
FINISHED HERB WRAP: 5˝ × 7½˝

You’d be hard-pressed to find a woman (and more than a few men) who doesn’t love to receive flowers. In my world, a bouquet of dandelions from my kids is just as precious as a big store-bought bouquet from my husband. And when neither are forthcoming, I am not above treating myself with a bouquet. We take reusable grocery bags to the store now, so why not take reusable floral wrap? Consider it a good reason to buy yourself flowers this weekend.

Made with laminated cotton, this wrap can withstand the moisture from the flowers, and it is easy to clean. Be sure to let it dry before storing.

REPLACES

Produce bags and plastic flour wraps

Plastic not only lasts in the landfills for generations, they also break down into microplastics that continue to pollute the environment.

Photo by Kate Inglis

Materials

• 1½ yards (or ¾ yard each of 2 contrasting colors/patterns) laminated cotton

• Large sheet of paper at least 25˝ × 25˝

• 30˝ long piece of string

• Pushpin

• Pencil

• Binding clips

Cutting

These cutting instructions are for the floral wrap. The herb wrap uses the leftover fabric.

Laminated cotton

• Cut 2 squares 24˝ × 24˝.

• Cut 1 piece 15˝ × 11˝.

• Cut 1 strip 2˝ × 13˝.

• Cut 1 strip 2˝ × 30˝.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ½˝.

Make the Template

1. Make sure your large piece of paper has a good right angle corner with straight edges. Measure 22˝ from the corner along both edges.

2. Tie the string to the pencil and measure out 22˝ from the pencil tip down the length of the string. Mark this point on the string.

3. Pin or hold the string at the 22˝ mark onto the corner of the paper. Stretch out the string the full length, use the 22˝ marks on the paper to double-check, and then move the pencil from one edge of the paper to the other to create a quarter-circle.

4. Cut out the template.

Make the Wrap

1. Place the quarter-circle template on the wrong side of each square 24˝ laminated cotton square. Use a few pieces of tape to hold it in place. With a fabric marker, trace the arc of the circle onto the fabric. Cut along this line.

2. Mark 2˝ from each side of the right angle corner and draw a line connecting these marks. Cut off the corners on both fabric quarter circles.

3. Fold the 15˝ × 11˝ piece of laminated cotton in half, right sides together, so it measures 15˝ × 5½˝. Sew the long side to make a tube. Turn the tube right side out and finger-press the seam.

This Foot Is Made for Walking
Use a walking foot or Teflon foot to sew the laminated cotton—it will make your life much easier.

4. Place the rectangle from Step 3 about 1˝ up from the cut corner on the right side of the inside piece. Stitch the sides and bottom a scant ½˝ from the edge, following the side lines of the quarter-circle, not the lines of the rectangle. Cut off the excess. This creates a pouch for the flower stems.

5. Fold the 2˝ strips in half, wrong sides together, to mark a center line; then unfold. Fold the short ends in ½˝. Fold the long edges of the strip to the center line, wrong sides together, and fold in half. Topstitch all around the edges, including the ends, to make the ties.

6. On the right side of the outside quarter-circle piece, mark a spot about 11˝ from the bottom and roughly 10˝ from the right edge. Place the longer tie on the mark and stitch a box around the bottom of the tie. For extra stability, sew an X in the middle of the box. Tape the tie so that it will not get caught when the quarter-circles are sewn together.

7. Place the shorter tie on the outside quarter panel, 9˝ from the curved edge and facing the center of the panel—this end will be sewn into the seam allowance. Tape the loose end out of the way so that it will not get caught when the quarter-circles are sewn together.

8. Place the 2 wrap pieces together, right sides facing. Hold them together with binding clips. Stitch all around the edges, leaving a 6˝ opening on a straight edge for turning.

9. Turn the wrap right side out through the opening. Untape the ties. Fold in the open edge. Topstitch ¼˝ from the edges of the wrap.

Next time you head to the market, bring your wrap so your flowers will be just as pretty on the way home—with no waste.

HERB WRAP

Use the leftover fabric from making the floral wrap to make an herb wrap—it’s perfect for giving herbs or small bouquets from your garden.

Follow the same process as for the floral wrap, just use the following smaller sizes:

• Cut the quarter-circle template with an 8˝ radius.

• Cut the rectangle for the pouch 7˝ × 5˝, folded and stitched to make a finished rectangle 7˝ × 2˝.

• Cut the ties 8˝ and 12˝ long.

Let’s Go

SHOPPING BAG

By Abigail American Bennett

FINISHED SIZE: 15½˝ wide at top (20˝ wide at base) × 14˝ tall × 5¾˝ deep

I keep my bag in the car so when I do my random grocery runs it’s ready to go! It keeps the ice cream cold for the Fourth of July picnic or the rotisserie chicken warm for supper. I don’t think I’ll ever be done making these for all my friends.

REPLACES

Plastic and paper shopping bags

Americans waste around 100 billion plastic bags annually. This number equates to 12 million barrels of crude oil.

Materials

• ⅝ yard of main print for exterior

• ⅝ yard of accent print 1 for exterior and handles

• ⅜ yard of accent print 2 for exterior

• 1⅛ yards for lining

• 1⅛ yards of fusible interfacing for handles

• 1 package or 1 yard of insulated batting, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing

Cutting

Main print: Cut 4 rectangles 9˝ × 16˝ for the outside bag.

Accent print 1

• Cut 2 rectangles 9˝ × 16˝ for the outside bag.

• Cut 2 rectangles 5˝ × 37˝ for the handles.

Accent print 2: Cut 2 rectangles 9˝ × 16˝ for the outside bag.

Lining: Cut 2 rectangles 17½˝ × 29˝. Stack the rectangles and measure 6¾˝ in from the top left corner. Draw a line from this point to the lower left corner and cut on the line, or use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut the angled line. Repeat for the right side, so the top edge measures 15½˝ and the base still measures 29˝.

Fusible interfacing: Cut 2 rectangles 4¾˝ × 36¾˝ for the handles.

Insul-Fleece: Cut 2 bag shapes using a lining piece as the pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Center the interfacing pieces on the wrong side of the handles 5˝ × 37˝. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place.

2. Make a handle by folding a rectangle 5˝ × 37˝ in half lengthwise and press. Unfold and fold the raw edges in to the center. Fold in half again and press. Topstitch both sides ⅛˝ from the edge. Repeat for the remaining handle and set aside.

3. Create the outside bag pieces by arranging 4 rectangles in a four-patch, as shown. Sew together and press the seams open. Make 2.

4. Using a lining piece as the pattern, trim each four-patch to the shape of the bag.

5. Pin each bag piece to an Insul-Fleece piece, and then pin the bag pieces right sides together. Sew together at the sides and bottom through all 4 layers. Press the seams open.

6. Make the boxed corners in the bag by folding the corners and matching the seams in the side and bottom of the bag. Measure 4˝ from the corner and draw a line perpendicular to the seam. This line will be 5¾˝ long. Sew along the line.

Trim the seam allowance to ¼˝ and press the seams open. Repeat on the other side and turn the bag right side out.

7. Pin the handles to the outside of the bag, 2½˝ from the side seams and matching the raw edges. Sew a scant ¼˝ from the edge.

8. Pin the lining pieces right sides together, and sew the sides and bottom, leaving a 3˝ opening in the bottom of the bag. Repeat Step 6 to make boxed corners on the lining. Push the outside bag inside the lining, right sides together, and pin the top edges together, matching the side seams and keeping the handles out of the seam. Sew around the top. Turn right side out through opening in the bottom of the lining. Sew the lining opening closed and press the seam open.

9. Push the lining inside the outside bag. Press the top edge and topstitch around the top of the bag ¼˝ from the edge.

In the Kitchen

5 Facts About Single-Use Disposables

By Karly Wallace

1. Single-use disposable include: plastic bottles, straws, grocery store and produce bags, cutlery, packaging, cups, and styrofoam containers.

2. Only around 9% of plastic waste in the United States is recycled.

3. Single-use disposable plastics are made from fossil fuel-based chemicals and have to be disposed of after use.

4. Human exposure to microplastics from single-use disposables is harmful. Most of the chemicals in plastics can cause health issues.

5. Styrofoam lasts about 500 years in a landfill.

Easy Does It

APRON

By Virginia Lindsay

FINISHED SIZE: 24˝ × 35˝

A classic well-designed apron is the foundation for so many pretty variations. You can add ruffles, mix fabrics, and experiment with embellishments and appliqué. Play with the pocket to make the apron unique to your style. A high-quality fabric goes a long way in the quest for the perfect apron. This one is made using Tinted Denim from Cloud9 Fabrics, and it is fabulous. Also, the style of the ties makes this version adjustable to a variety of sizes.

REPLACES

Mess! Use less laundry detergent

Laundry detergent can contain several chemical compounds that can harm the environment including phosphates (which can lead to the growth of algae, depriving other plants and animals of oxygen) and surfactants (which are highly toxic to aquatic life).

Fabric: Tinted Denim from Cloud9 Fabrics

Materials

Makes 1 apron.

• 1 yard cotton fabric 1 (yellow denim, canvas, or chambray)

• 1 fat quarter for pocket cotton fabric 2 (pink) (Note: This can be quilting cotton or denim, canvas, or chambray.)

• ¼ yard for straps cotton fabric 3 (print) (Note: I recommend quilting cotton.)

• Tube turner

Cutting

Fabric 1

• Cut 1 piece 26˝ × 36˝ for body.

• Cut 2 pieces 4˝ × 7˝ for tabs.

Fabric 2: Cut 15˝ × 10˝ for pocket.

Fabric 3: Cut 2 strips 2½˝ × WOF for straps.

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

Sew the Apron Body

1. Fold the body fabric wrong sides together so that it measures 13˝ × 36˝. Use the Easy Does It Apron pattern to shape the top portion of the apron. (Note that the pattern in the book is reduced. Enlarge it 200% before use.)

2. Topstitch the curves ⅝˝ from the edge. Then press the raw edges ¼˝ toward the wrong side. Fold under another ⅜˝ and press. The second pressing should easily fold under along the topstitching. Press the curves again and then topstitch ¼˝ from the outside folded edges.

3. Press the top edge under ¼˝ toward the wrong side. Then press under again ¾˝. Leave this for a moment while you sew the straps.

4. Sew the 2½˝ × WOF pieces of fabric rights sides together to make long tubes. Turn the tubes right side out with a tube turner or a large safety pin. Tuck one end inside the tubes for a finished edge and press the piece thoroughly.

5. Topstitch along both long sides and the folded-under edge of each strap.

6. Slide the raw ends of the straps under the folded and pressed top edge where the top and the curves connect. The straps will hang down the wrong side of the apron at this point. Sew the fold down and over the straps.

7. Fold the straps up toward the top edge and topstitch the top edge of the fold and the strap in place.

Make the Tabs

1. Fold the 4˝ × 7˝ pieces right sides together so they are 2˝ × 7˝. Sew the raw edges and press the seam half open. To do this, with the seam on the edge of your ironing board, open one side of the seam and press flat toward the center. This will make it easier to press when you do the next step.

2. Turn right side out and press flat with the seam down the middle of one side.

3. Fold in half with the seam inside the fold to make a 3½˝ loop and press.

Sew the Side and Bottom Seams

1. Fold the side seams and bottom edge ¼˝ toward the wrong side. Press.

2. Press the sides again, this time 3∕8˝. Insert the loops where the curve meets the side seam underneath the folds. Pin them in place.

3. Topstitch the side seam and then fold the loop over toward the edge. Sew the loop in place to hold it. Press.

4. The bottom edge is already folded over ¼˝; fold it again ¾˝ toward the wrong side. Press and topstitch it in place.

Make the Pocket

1. Fold and press one 15˝ edge of the pocket piece ¼˝ toward the wrong side. Then press around the other 3 sides ¼˝. Fold and press the top edge ⅜˝ and topstitch it in place.

2. Center the pocket on the apron so it is 5¼˝ from each side and 2˝ down from where the loop and the side curve meet. Pin.

3. Topstitch the pocket in place, leaving the top hemmed edge open.

4. Mark the vertical center of the pocket and sew a straight line to make a divider in the pocket.

Finish the Apron

Thread the left side strap through the right loop and the right side strap through the left loop. Tie the straps together behind the back.

Make It Your Own

• Use vintage sheets or fabric for a unique look. Make sure that it washes well, though.

• Use binding for the curved sides and around the bottom half to create more color.

• Use stencils or embroidery to write a fun message on your apron.

• Use 1˝-wide cotton webbing for quick straps instead of sewing your own.

For all printable patterns or digital content: tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download

Oven Towel

By Abigail America Bennett

FINISHED SIZE: 6½˝ × 10½˝ (when buttoned)

People frequently flip a kitchen towel over the oven door handle for convenience. It’s not so convenient when the towels end up on the floor. But this perfect little pal won’t slip off as you run about the kitchen, going from one thing to the next!

REPLACES

Paper towels

Around 13 billion pounds of paper towels are used by households in the United States every year.

Materials

• Scraps or ½ yard (if using just 1 fabric) of cotton fabric

• 1 button: ⅞˝ in diameter

Cutting

• Cut 2 towel tops using Oven Towel Pattern.

• Cut 1 piece 11˝ × 15˝ for towel.

• Cut 1 piece 1˝ × 11˝ for trim.

• Cut 1 piece 1½˝ × 3½˝ for button loop.

INSTRUCTIONS

All seams are ½˝, unless otherwise stated. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. Press after sewing each seam.

1. Make a button loop (see Loopie Loops).

2. Pin the button loop on the top of an upper towel piece, as marked on the pattern. Stitch in place.

3. Fold and press the bottom edge of both upper towel pieces over ⅜˝ to the wrong side.

4. Pin the upper towel pieces right sides together, aligning the corners at the top and the folded edges at the bottom. Sew from the bottom fold up the side, pivoting at the top corner, and down to the other fold, leaving the bottom open.

5. Trim the corners, clip the curves, and turn right side out.

6. Fold and press the long sides of the trim piece in to the center, wrong sides together.

7. Place the trim, raw edges down, on the 11˝ × 15˝ towel piece as shown. Topstitch both sides of the trim.

8. Hem the shorter sides of the towel with a narrow hem by turning up about ⅛˝ of fabric at the edge, pressing it in place, turning up and pressing another ⅛˝, and machine stitching close to the edge. Then repeat to hem a long side. Run a gathering stitch on the other long side. (For an easy gathering stitch, sew 2 parallel rows of long straight stitches ¼˝ apart, leaving a long tail on the threads that you pull to gather.)

9. Gather the top of the towel to fit the opening at the bottom of the oven hand towel piece. Pin in place inside the open bottom of the assembled upper towel, so that the gathers are just hidden. Stitch through all 3 layers ⅛˝ from the bottom of the upper towel.

10. Sew the button in the center of the upper towel piece, ⅝˝ above the bottom seam.

Loopie Loops

1. Fold and press the strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open it up, fold the raw edges in to the center on the wrong side, and press again.

2. Fold the strip back along the original crease, so that the raw edges are hidden.

3. Stitch along both long sides ⅛˝ (or less, if you’re a pro) from the edges.

4. Fold the stitched loop in half and press it in the shape of a slightly pointed U, with the folded side of the loop facing in. Make sure the raw ends are even. Place as directed in the project.

For all printable patterns or digital content: tinyurl.com/11558-patterns-download

Potluck Superstar

TOTE

By Abigail American Bennett

FINISHED SIZE: Fits 9˝ wide × 13˝ long × 2˝ deep pan and slightly larger

This carrier will hold that pan of deliciousness from your warm kitchen to the potluck while keeping it nice and toasty on the way. A cute pocket on the inside will hold whatever serving utensils you will need. Handles make it easy to not only bring the dish to the potluck but back home, too!

REPLACES

Plastic wrap and aluminum foil

Plastic wrap and aluminum foil are both problematic for the environment. Plastic can sit in a landfill for up to 1000 years. Aluminum foil for 500 years. Aluminum foil also has a problematic (energy-intensive) manufacturing process.

Materials

• 1⅛ yards of main fabric for outside and lining

• 1 yard of contrasting fabric for pocket flaps and handles

• 1 package or ⅞ yard of insulated batting, such as Insul-Fleece by C&T Publishing

• 1¼ yards of fusible interfacing for handles (optional)

• ⅝ yard of ⅜˝–½˝-wide ribbon

Cutting

Main fabric: Cut 6 rectangles 11˝ × 16½˝.

Contrasting fabric

• Cut 4 rectangles 10˝ × 11˝ for the flaps.

• Cut 1 rectangle 7˝ × 20˝ for the pocket.

• Cut 2 rectangles 5˝ × 40˝ for the handle.

Insul-Fleece: Cut 6 rectangles 11˝ × 16½˝.

Fusible interfacing (optional): Cut 2 rectangles 4¾˝ × 39¾˝ for the handle.

Tip While fusible interfacing is suggested, you don’t have to use it. I prefer to have the extra support in the handles because it’s carrying my home-cooked dinner. I can promise you that my Mama Erika has one without interfacing, and it’s held up just fine!

INSTRUCTIONS

Seam allowances are ¼˝ unless otherwise noted.

1. Pin and sew the Insul-Fleece rectangles to the wrong sides of all 6 of the outside and lining rectangles. Connect 3 of the rectangles by sewing the long sides, right sides together. Press the seams toward the center. Repeat with the remaining 3 rectangles. Press the seams toward the outside. Set aside one panel of 3.

2. Fold the pocket rectangle in half to 7˝ × 10˝, right sides together. Sew the sides, clip the corners, and turn right side out. Carefully poke the corners out and press. Pin to the main panel 2˝ from the edge. Sew down both sides of the pocket through all layers, ⅛˝ from the pocket edge. Set aside.

3. Cut the ribbon in half. Pin a ribbon strip in the center of the 11˝ side of a fabric flap rectangle. Right sides together, pin a second flap rectangle to it, matching the corners. Repeat with remaining 2 flap rectangles and ribbon strip. Sew around 3 sides of each flap, making sure to catch the ribbons at the tops. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Carefully poke out the corners and press.

4. Right sides together, pin the flaps to the middle section of the remaining panel, matching the raw edges. Sew each flap in place.

5. Pin the 2 main panels right sides together, matching the seams. Sew together, leaving a 4˝ opening in the center of one side. Clip the corners and turn right side out. Carefully poke out the corners and topstitch ¼˝ from the edge, being careful not to catch the flaps in the stitching.

6. Center the interfacing pieces on the wrong side of the handles 5˝ × 40˝ and, following the manufacturer’s instructions, fuse in place. Make the handle by sewing the ends of the 2 handle rectangles right sides together, creating a loop. Fold in half and press. Unfold and fold the raw edges in to meet in the middle, and then fold in half again and press. Topstitch down both sides, ⅛˝ from the edge.

7. Open the carrier with the center outside panel facing up. Place the handle on the center panel, with the handle seams centered and the outside edges of the handle 3˝ from the flap seams. Pin the handle to this center section only, and sew ⅛˝ from each edge of the handle. Repeat on other side. I recommend using a walking foot to sew through all these layers.

Napkins

WITH BUILT-IN TIES

By Cheryl Arkison

FINISHED NAPKIN: 16˝ × 16˝

When my family gave up paper towels and napkins for the more sustainable, and frankly prettier, cloth napkin, we struggled with one small detail—we had no napkin rings in the house. Looking to limit laundry, I insisted that cloth napkins, unless filthy with tomato sauce or butter, get used for more than one meal. The only way we could then tell who used what napkin was by assigning different colors to each person. With the built-in ties and decorative edge of these napkins, I now have a coordinated set with individual markings provided by the homemade bias tape edge.

I love the relaxed look of linen for these napkins, but they will require pressing if you want a crisp look. Cotton will be similar. You can use any solid color for some gorgeously decorated tables. If you want to use a print for the napkin, make sure you like the look of the fabric on both the right and wrong sides. In a single layer, the wrong side will be quite visible. Or double up the napkin by basting two squares of fabric wrong sides together before attaching the ties and binding.

REPLACES

Paper napkins

Use linen to make these napkins! The manufacturing of linen use less water and releases less greenhouse gas emissions than manufacturing cotton fabrics. If you stick with paper napkins, make sure to compost them instead of throwing them into your trash.

Materials

Makes 4 napkins.

• 1 yard linen or cotton

• 9¾ yards ½˝-wide double-fold bias binding tape

Cutting

Linen or cotton: Cut 4 squares 16½˝ × 16½˝.

Bias tape

• Cut 4 pieces, each 72˝ long.

• Cut 4 pieces 14˝ long.

Napkin Folding

There are three easy ways to fold these napkins for decorative and functional use.

• Roll the sides of the napkin in toward the ties. When the rolled edges meet, tie the napkin closed with the built-in ties.

• Gather the napkin by pinching the fabric 2˝ below the ties. Then use the ties as you would a napkin ring—tying around the gathered fabric and fanning out the edges.

• Fold the napkin in thirds, making sure the ties are on the outside. Roll the sides in and tie. This is a compact way to store or transport the napkins.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Fold under the ends of each 14˝ bias strip ¼˝ and press. Topstitch across the end, along the long edge, and across the other end. These are the ties.

2. Find the center point of the 16½˝ × 16½˝ napkin square. Pin the center of the topstitched bias tape ties to the center of the napkin square. Stitch the ties to the napkin square using an “X” shape in a rectangle, no larger than ¾˝.

3. Attach the bias tape to the edges of the napkin as if it were bias binding on a quilt. Fold the bias tape to the other side of the napkin and stitch ⅛˝ from the edge of the bias tape. Use a coordinating thread.

4. Press well.

Napkin and napkin ring in one, pack them in your picnic basket or leave them on the table for brunch.

Sewing Binding to a Quilt

Binding a quilt (or napkins) is like adding sprinkles to a cake. Sure, you could serve the cake without them, or simply turn the quilt edges with a pillowcase fold, but it will look so much more exciting with that extra dash of color.

Note: If you are using double-layer binding, leave the strips folded and sew both raw edges to the quilt. If you are using single-layer binding tape, open the folds and sew a single layer to the quilt or project.

1. Starting about 6˝ from a corner, pin the binding on one side of the quilt/napkin, leaving about 3˝ unattached. Sew on the binding with a ¼˝ seam allowance.

2. Stop ¼˝ from the corner. Backstitch and lift your needle. Fold the binding up so the fold forms a 45° angle. Fold the binding down and align it with the edge of the quilt/napkin.

3. Start stitching ¼˝ from the edge and sew the next edge. Repeat at each corner. Stop sewing about 4˝ from where you started. Backstitch.

4. To join the ends, fold the ending tail of the binding back on itself where it meets the beginning binding tail.

5. From the fold, measure and mark the cut width of your binding strip. Cut the ending binding tail to this measurement. For example, if the binding is cut 2⅛˝ wide, measure from the fold on the ending tail of the binding 2⅛˝ and cut the binding tail to this length.

6. Open both tails. Place one tail on top of the other at right angles, right sides together.

7. Mark a diagonal line from corner to corner and stitch on the line.

8. Check that you’ve done it correctly and that the binding fits the quilt/napkin; then trim the seam allowance to ¼˝. Press open.

9. Bring the folded edge to the back and stitch in place.

Unpaper Towels

By Jenelle Montilone

SIZE VARIES

Before paper towels, there were cloth napkins, which worked great at wiping spills and chins. And they still do. Cloth napkins often seem like a luxury these days, but these are the “unpaper” towel, meant to be used any time.

REPLACES

Paper towels

Paper towels cannot be recycled and decompose in landfills where they release Methane which is 28 times more dangerous to the environment than Carbon Dioxide.

Tip to Save the Planet

One-third of garbage that enters our landfills is paper products. Eliminating paper towels from your daily habit for one month will reduce your carbon footprint by 5.8 pounds and save you approximately $8.

Materials

Makes 1 Unpaper Towel.

• 1 T-shirt

• Marker/chalk

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Turn your T-shirt inside out and lay it flat.

2. Draw a rectangle on the T-shirt. Start by marking a line just below the collar of the T-shirt using your straight edge and washable marker. Draw 2 parallel lines down the sides of the shirt close to the sleeve stitching. Finish the rectangle with a line near the bottom hem.

3. Pin around the inside of the rectangle. Be sure to go through both layers of the shirt. Cut out along the lines.

4. Sew along the outside edge using a ¼˝ seam allowance. Leave a 3˝ opening along the side to turn the unpaper towel right side out.

5. Trim the corners at an angle.

6. Carefully turn the towel right side out through the 3˝ opening. Push out your corners. Iron to press edge seams flat, turning the edges of your opening to the inside.

7. Pin the opening closed, and then pin around the edges.

8. Topstitch around the outside of your reusable napkin about ⅛˝ from the edge.

Reusable

DUSTER MITT

By Jenelle Montilone

SIZE VARIES

Let’s face it; no one really wants to dust, do they? But there’s something satisfying about removing dust with repurposed material. Instead of meeting the landfill, it now serves a noble purpose, thanks to your creativity!

REPLACES

Throw away dusting mitts and cloths

Although disposable dusting mitts and cloths are convenient and easy to use, they are non-biodegradable and result in a large amount of unnecessary waste.

Materials

• 2 contrasting T-shirts*

• 1 sleeve cuff from long-sleeved shirt

* One T-shirt will yield enough fabric for this project, but contrasting colors add a fun pop.

INSTRUCTIONS

Prep

1. Cut a 10˝ × 5˝ rectangle along the fold at 1 side of your main T-shirt; keep the shirt’s hem along 1 of the 5˝ sides of the rectangle. When you unfold it, the piece will measure 10˝ × 10˝. Set aside.

2. Cut at least 8 strips, 4 from each T-shirt, approximately 10˝ × 3˝.

3. Cut about 1˝ in and 1½˝ apart along both long edges of each strip to create a fringe.

4. Open up the 10˝ × 5˝ rectangle from Step 1 and smooth it out.

Sew

1. Stack a fringe of each color, lengthwise, 2˝ from right edge of rectangle. Pin in place. Run a single length of stitches in coordinating thread down the center of fringe, backstitching at each end.

2. Repeat Step 1 for the remaining fringed strips, spacing each approximately 2˝ apart. Note: I found it easier to sew 1 set of strips and then fold over the fringe before laying out the next set.

3. With the fringe sewn in place, fold the rectangle in half, right sides in, with the fringe running vertically. Pin into place, being careful not to catch any of the fringe. Leave an opening on the short side with the original shirt hem; this will serve as the bottom of your mitt.

4. Draw a rounded shape on the top of the mitt and re-pin around the edges. Sew or serge the edges and trim the seam allowance. Turn your mitt right side out.

Furoshiki

Eco-Friendly Wrap

By Pixeladies, Deb Cashatt and Kris Sazaki

The single-use plastic bag has created an ecological nightmare. Estimates on worldwide consumption vary between 500 billion and a trillion plastic bags per year. That would seem like enough to fill an ocean. In fact, a collection of litter is accumulating in the currents of the North Pacific Ocean. Known as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, this mass of garbage, which includes countless plastic bags, is estimated to be larger than the state of Texas.
There is a better way. In 2006, Yuriko Koike, who was Japan’s minister of the environment at the time, introduced the mottainai furoshiki to encourage people to use furoshiki to reduce waste. This particular furoshiki was made from recycled PET bottles and was decorated with a painting by the eighteenth-century Japanese painter Jakuchu Ito. Mottainai usually translates as “wasteful,” but the Japanese have put a lot of oomph into this word so that the meaning it conveys is more like, “Boy, it’s a shame to waste this thing and not realize its full value.” By making and reusing furoshiki instead of plastic bags and paper, you can help reduce waste. And, you’ll be creating a beautiful work of art every time you wrap something.

REPLACES

Plastic bags, gift bags, and wrapping paper

Most wrapping paper is made out of mixed materials that are hard to recycle and go to landfills. The glitter on some papers pollutes oceans and can be ingested by animals.

FABRIC CHOICES

The first thing you will want to do is to decide on the fabric you will use to make your furoshiki. Your choices in fabrics for furoshiki are almost endless. You can buy fabric by the yard, use new or vintage scarves, or even create your own fabric using surface design techniques such as dyeing, stamping, painting, and digital printing.

EDGE FINISHES

Japanese furoshiki usually have two selvage edges and two hemmed edges. However, you can also leave edges raw or cut them decoratively instead of hemming—a great no-sew option. We encourage you to choose the edge finish that best suits your style and your furoshiki. Following are some edge finishes we recommend.

BASIC KNOTS AND TWISTS

Other than folds, you need to learn only a few basic knots and twists to make all the projects. In fact, you already know them! We’re just defining them here for your reference.

Overhand Knot

The overhand knot uses just one corner! Take one corner, form a loop, and pull the corner through the loop. The overhand knot creates a tail. Where you begin the overhand knot determines the length of the tail, so consider this when making overhand knots.

Half-Square Knot and Square Knot

The half-square knot is just the first step of the square knot. Do you remember this rule from your childhood? “Right over left and left over right makes a knot both tidy and tight.”

1. Choose 2 corners A and B. Place B over and under A, and then pull. This forms a half-square knot.

2. Take corner B and place it over and under A, and then tighten to form the square knot.

Basic Twist

Why twist the ends of a furoshiki, you might ask? For one, you can create lovely twisted cordlike handles, such as those on the Watermelon Wrap with a Twist. Twisting the ends of the furoshiki also shortens their length. This comes in handy if you have ends that are too long. In some instances, it is easier to get your hand through a twisted handle. For those of you who have ever had long hair, this twist is exactly what you did with your hair in class while waiting for the teacher to call roll. With one end of the furoshiki between your thumb and forefinger, begin twisting the fabric. The basic twist is made before tying a square knot. If you don’t tie a square knot, the twist will unwind.

Hand Carry Wrap

TESAGE BUKURO

By Pixeladies

Tie two corners together with a square knot and repeat on the other side! Different-sized fabric squares will produce different-sized bags. A 30˝ × 30˝ Hand Carry Wrap, for example, is great for carrying a few books to a meeting.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Position the fabric as a square, with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.

2. Tie a square knot with corners A and B.

3. Tie another square knot with corners C and D. To carry it, grab the knots or put your hand through the openings under the knots.

Four-Tie Wrap

YOTTSU MUSUBI

By Pixeladies

The Four-Tie Wrap works well with taller boxes. The ends of the two square knots form a lovely “flower” on the top.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Position the fabric as a diamond, with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Place the box in the middle of the fabric.

2. Lift corners A and C and tie a square knot at the center of the box.

3. Lift corners B and D and tie a square knot at the center of the box. This knot sits on top of the first square knot. Flare out the ends of all four corners to create the petals of the flower.

Two-Knot Wrap

FUTATSU TSUTSUMI

By Pixeladies

The Two-Knot Wrap works well with rectangular boxes where two corners are too short to create a Four-Tie Wrap.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Position the fabric as a diamond, with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Place the box in the middle of the fabric.

2. Cross corners A and C, bringing corner A to the front and corner C to the back.

3. Tie a square knot with corners C and D, putting C over D, and then C over D.

4. Tie a square knot with corners A and B, putting B over A, and then B over A. Tying the knots in the manner described will make the center especially pretty.

Watermelon Wrap

SUIKA TSUTSUMI

By Pixeladies

Traditionally called the watermelon wrap because it works well with round objects, we’ve redubbed this the “Tupperware Wrap”! You may not need to wrap a watermelon every day, but you may want to carry that bowl of potato salad in style to the next potluck. And, yes, this wrap makes a great purse, too! You need a 28˝ × 28˝ furoshiki to wrap a 9˝-diameter mixing bowl.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Begin with the completed Hand Carry Wrap.

2. Feed the knot created by C and D through the hole created by A and B. The knot created by C and D forms the handle, while the knot created by A and B rests on top of the round object. Adjust where the knot created by A and B sits to help keep the object balanced.

Watermelon Wrap with a Twist

SUIKA NEJIRI MAKI

By Pixeladies

Twisted handles are easier to get your hand through on this version of the Watermelon Wrap.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Start with a completed Watermelon Wrap. Untie the square knot of ends C and D, and individually twist the ends several times.

2. Retie the square knot near the ends of C and D.

Two-Bottle Wrap

BIN TUSTSUMI (NIHON)

By Pixeladies

The key to this wrap is to have two items of the same size that can stand up by themselves. Because you start by wrapping these items end to end, you need a larger furoshiki than you might think. Try a 33˝ × 33˝ furoshiki.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Position the fabric as a diamond, with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Center 2 bottles, bottoms facing each other with a little space in between, on corner C of the fabric.

2. Roll the bottles in the fabric toward corner A, keeping the fabric smooth as you roll.

3. Stand up the 2 bottles by lifting ends B and D. For a cleaner look, keep corner A between the 2 bottles as you stand them up. If the bottles are too close together, you can slide them apart as you bring up corners B and D.

4. Tie a square knot at the top of the 2 bottles using corners B and D. If the tails are really long, just twist the ends and tie another square knot near the ends of B and D, creating a handle.

Tip You don’t have to limit yourself to beverage bottles. Try wrapping containers of olive oil and balsamic vinegar together. How about two lotion bottles? For the athlete in your family, you might try wrapping two water bottles together in a sports towel.

Natural Cleaning

There are plenty of do-it-yourself ways to help the environment, including creating your own cleaning solutions.

Natural Cleaning Ingredients

Baking soda

Baking soda cleans and deodorizes as well as scours. You can use this alone to clean kitchen and bathroom fixtures such as sinks, toilets, baths, and ovens.

Borax

Borax powder is often found in stores in the laundry detergent area. It is similar to baking soda (but stronger).

Essential oils

Naturally provides fragrance and can be mixed with many other ingredients to add a pleasant aroma to cleaning supplies.

Hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide can be used to disinfect kitchens and bathrooms and kill germs and mold as well as to remove stains in fabric.

Lemon juice

Lemon juice is an acid and can deodorize and cut grease. It can kill bacteria and is great in the laundry to remove stains.

Vegetable or Olive oil

Use to polish furniture.

Salt

Use salt with water to scour off dirt or with other ingredients such as vinegar and baking soda to boost cleaning power.

Unscented liquid soap (such as castile soap)

Use this in laundry detergents, dish soaps, hand soaps, and other cleaners.

Washing soda

Washing soda cuts grease, removes stains, and softens water. It can be used as an all-purpose cleaner to clean tiles, sinks, bathtubs, and walls. Wear gloves when using this ingredient because it may irritate skin.

White vinegar

Vinegar helps cut grease and get rid of stains, dirt, mildew, and odors. It can also kill germs and deodorize. You can use it at full strength or dilute it with water or baking soda.

Cleaners

Air freshener

• Water

• Essential oil

Adjust the proportion of water and essential oils to ge the intensity of aroma you’d like and then spray around the house.

All-purpose cleaner

• 1 part white vinegar

• 1–3 part water

• Essential oil

Mix together (experimenting with the amount of essential oil to get the smell you like) and spray onto the surface to be cleaned. Avoid use on stone surfaces, such as marble or granite and be cautious when using on appliance surfaces.

Cutting board cleaner

• ½ lemon

Rub the cut side of the lemon on a wooden cutting board.

Dish soap

• 4 parts castile soap

• 1 part water

Mix together in a sealed container and to warm water or onto a sponge to clean dishes. Add a couple of tablespoons of vinegar to the warm, soapy water for baked-on or difficult messes.

Dishwasher detergent

• 1 part washing soda

• 1 part baking soda

• 1 part kosher salt

Store in a sealed container and use one to two tablespoons per load.

Disposal deodorizer

• Baking soda or lemon or orange peels

Pour baking soda into your garbage disposal to remove odors or grind up lemon or orange peel.

Floor cleaner: Wood

• 1 cup vinegar

• Bucket of warm water

• Squeeze of castile soap

Mix ingredients in a bucket and use it to mop.

Floor cleaner: Laminate

• ½ cup vinegar

• 1 gallon warm water

Mix ingredients in a bucket and use it to mop.

Furniture and wood cleaner and polish

• ¼–¾ cup white vinegar

• ¾ cup olive oil

• Juice of ½ lemon or 20 drops of essential oil

Mix together ingredients and use a dampened rag to wipe on wood furniture.

Glass cleaner

• 1 part white vinegar

• 5 parts water

• Optional: Add ½ part rubbing alcohol to help avoid streaks.

Spray onto windows. For mirrors, spray on a soft cloth before wiping.

Heavy-duty scrub

• ½ lemon

• ½ cup borax

Dip lemon into borax and scrub a surface such as porcelain or enamel sinks and bathtubs to remove tough stains. You can also mix the lemon juice and the borax together to make a paste. Do not use on stone surfaces, such as granite.

Kitchen cleaner

• ¼ cup baking soda

• 1 quart warm water

Mix together and spray onto kitchen counters and appliances, and into refrigerators.

Laundry detergent

• 1 part washing soda

• 1 part baking soda

• 1 part borax

• Essential oils as desired

Place ingredients in a lidded container and shake to mix. Use 1 heaping tablespoon per load.

Mildew remover

• 1 part hydrogen peroxide

• 2 parts water

Spray on mold and mildew and let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes before rinsing with warm water. Instead of hydrogen peroxide and water, you can also use straight white vinegar.

Stain remover

• ¼ cup white vinegar

• ¼ cup baking soda

• 2 cups water

• 1 Tbsp castile soap

Put mixture into a spray bottle and spray stained clothes (or walls!). For laundry stains, you can also try straight vinegar or hydrogen peroxide and water in equal parts.

Stainless steel polish

• Baking soda

• Water

Make a paste by adding water to baking soda and use it with a damp cloth to clean stainless steel. You can also use white vinegar or olive oil to clean stainless steel appliances. Always rub with the direction of the stainless steel’s grain. Rinse and buff dry.

Toilet cleaner

• 1 cup White vinegar

• ¼ cup Baking soda

• 10 drops of essential oil

Mix in the toilet bowl and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing with a brush.

Meet the Designers

Abigail America Bennett

Abigail has been sewing and creating her entire life. She and her husband live in Fort Worth, Texas, with their dogs, Kowboy and Pistol. When she’s not at work, she can be found in the Fort Worth Stockyards eating BBQ and getting a rack of longhorns with her husband and best friend, Koal Butler. If she’s not there, she’s probably at home creating something new in her sewing nook while homemade cookies bake in the oven. View her everyday projects and hair-coloring decisions on her blog. Sew Home in the Kitchen is Abigail’s second published work with C&T Publishing.

Visit Abigail online! Blog abiamerican.blogspot.com

Virginia Lindsay

Virginia is a self-taught sewist and lover all things fabric. She is the author of the popular sewing blog Gingercake and the designer behind the PDF pattern shop Gingercake Patterns (gingercake.bigcartel.com). She has designed 24 sewing patterns and has several published by Simplicity. She has done many craft shows and sews for her online shop (ginia18.etsy.com). Virginia has written two other sewing books, Sewing to Sell—The Beginner’s Guide to Starting a Craft Business (by Stash Books) and Pretty Birds (by Running Press).

Virginia is the mother of four and is happily married to her husband, Travis. She lives outside of Pittsburgh in Freeport, Pennsylvania. Her kids inspire her every day and she spends a lot of time playing cards, watching soccer, throwing the baseball, and listening to piano practice. When she is not taking care of her big family, you will find her taking walks outside, vegetable gardening, and sewing away in her home sewing studio.

Learn more about Virginia at gingercake.org.

Jenelle Montilone

Jenelle is a recycling and repurposing revolutionary, passionate about family, the environment, and following dreams. Her love for hiking, nature, and being outdoors led her to pursue an environmental education degree in college. When she looked deep into the eyes of her firstborn, she started to wonder what types of problems his generation will face. Jenelle believed that she could make a difference, and she knows that you can too! Learn about her commitment, and join the movement to change the way we consume and create at trashn2tees.com.

Sue Kim

Sue lives in Manitoba, Canada, with her three lovely children and husband. You may find her latest designs on her website, ithinksew.com. She started sewing when she was ten years old and has always had a passion for crafts. She earned a master’s degree in ancient Asian literature. However, she kept sewing and designing as a hobby until luckily she was asked to be a sewing instructor at a Jo-Ann Fabric and Crafts store. That expanded into requests to instruct in several quilt shops; the quilt shop owners also encouraged her to start her own pattern business. Her first patterns were for small bags and clutches, and eventually she was asked to make a pattern book on bags and clutches! Now, most of the patterns Sue sells are downloadable PDF patterns rather than printed patterns. She has completed several books of patterns and has become an independent pattern designer who is now writing for several publishers and pattern companies.

Cheryl Arkison

When Cheryl was a kid, her family bet her ten dollars that she couldn’t keep silent for an entire family meal. It was the easiest money her family won. Cheryl never stops talking, let alone writing, designing, or cooking. This means she never stops creating.

As a mother to three kids who have only two modes—awake and asleep—it also means she simply never stops. It might be her Ukrainian heritage and the work ethic that comes with it, or perhaps it is simply a matter of there always being something fun to do. In the midst of full-time motherhood, Cheryl finds time to write books, teach quilting, and maintain a small freelance writing career.

Calgary, Alberta, is home for Cheryl, who lives with her wickedly handsome and sarcastic husband; two gregarious girls with enough wit, charm, and energy to feed a village; and one little boy who is happy to take in the day with eyes wide open. Her perfect day starts with tea and the family (wrestling match optional). Most likely it ends with a cocktail (gin in the summer and scotch in the winter) and conversation. And somewhere in there she will quilt.

THE PIXELADIES

was born in 2003. Their studio consists of three computers, three printers, four sewing machines, and a serger. Yes, they collaborate on their Pixeladies projects because they like the challenge of coming up with a single artistic vision from two distracted minds! Their scarves and quilts have been published and juried in national and international exhibits. Visit their website at www.pixeladies.com.

Deb Cashatt

Deb is an air force brat. Daughter of a retired navigator (which is why she thinks she has a genetic right to tell people where to go) and a very creative mother (who thinks Deb is uppity for keeping her maiden name), Deb has been playing with fabric for as long as she can remember. She lives in Cameron Park, California, with her husband, Dave. Sewing garments, quilting, and passing down the joy of creating to her grandkids are some of her passions. Deb really, really likes to travel and is fortunate to have friends who move to exotic places just so she can visit them. She thinks the world would be a better place if people wore boas and drove cars with fins.

Kris Sazaki

Kris is an army brat. She inherited the gift of gab from her dad and a sense of adventure from her mom. Sewing she learned from her sister, Noni, and knitting from her sister-in-law, Vicki, and she spent a few teenage years making items to sell at Christmas craft fairs. Her best sewing memories are the Halloween costumes she made for her son. Before becoming an artist, Kris was a German professor, living in some exotic cities where Deb visited her. She lives in Sacramento, California, with her husband, Neil, her son, Miles, and her mother-in-law, Jane. She thinks most problems can be solved after eating chocolate.

Cheryl B. Steighner

Born on Earth Day, Cheryl has been sewing, crafting, and recycling for as long as she can remember. She created reusable sandwich wraps to reduce the amount of plastic bags used each week and to make my lunch a little more exciting.

Yoko Drain

Yokomono Studio specialized in modern bags and home accessories with a Japanese aesthetic. Blend two parts midcentury modern with one part functional Tokyo subway system, and stir! Yoko is currently taking a break from her studio.

Resources

becausehealth.org > eco swiffer alternatives

biologicaldiversity.org > plastic_bag_facts

conserveturtles.org > information sea turtles threats marine debris

earthday.org > fact sheet single use plastics

eco2greetings.com > News > wastemountain of coffee cups

epa.gov > facts and figures about materials waste and recycling

foodprint.org > blog > environmental impact coffee cup

goodhousekeeping.com > make at home cleaners

learn.eartheasy.com > non toxic home cleaning

madeleineolivia.co.uk > 20 diy natural cleaning recipes hacks tips

nationalgeographic.com > environment > article > methane

npr.org > zero waste single use plastic trash recycle

nrdc.org > stories > single use plastics

plasticoceans.org > the facts

uaex.uada.edu > clean green homemade cleaners

upstairsdownstairscleaning.com > green cleaning products

usda.gov > media > use insulated lunch bag keep meals safe

Sew Sustainable Download

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